Pacific Coastal Range Expedition

posted by Claire on Apr 30

I’m here at Hiker Heaven, the most welcoming, helpful PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) hiker stop.  L-rod and Jeff have a few beds and couches in their trailer home and RV and they put up tents later, and there is a fully stocked shower, first aid kit (usually for feet), and kitchen.  L-Rod (that’s her trail name, short for Lightning Rod) does your laundry while you relax in sweatpants and sweatshirt from their hiker clothing bins.  Computers and internet access, a printer, bikes to go into town, a CAR to drive into Santa Clarita, hiker boxes full of stuff other people left behind, and there was even some stuff in the fridge from the hiker that came before me (beer, mmm).  I see why they call it Heaven.

Upon arrival, I was told that I was the 1st thru-hiker (that is, hiking the whole trail) this season, and L-Rod said that this was the first time in the 11 years that they’ve run Hiker Heaven that a woman has been the 1st thru-hiker.  I was pretty excited.  Apparently there’s a guy about 4 days behind me.  I like to pretend that I don’t care if he passes me, but , of course,  I really do.  I can’t ignore that competitive streak.  However, I will not be despondent if he does pass me.  Some of these hikers can pull off 30 miles a day without any problems.  I’m hoping to get there, but 25 miles is still pushing things for me.  This is not a race, except against the onset of winter.

It is nice to be out in front, because it means I have the trail to myself. Some PCT hikers seem to love to travel in large groups, but that’s not my bag.  I’m far too difficult to get along with, don’t you think?

For all you who are not backpackers, I thought I’d lay out the daily routine.  Usually I get up with the sun.  Those of you who know how I like to sleep, a sunrise wake time is already pretty early. I used to have Nate to wake me up earlier, now I’ll need to get a watch for an earlier start.  Only one of the many things I miss about his presence.  I roll out of my sleeping bag, pack up, wolf down an energy bar, some dried fruit, chocolate, and one of those gel shots, and hit the road.  Brushing the teeth and all that gets done in there sometime, but I’m usually so chilly that I want to get moving and not hang around to cook something.  After that, it’s hike, eat more bars, gel shots, drink mixes, chocolate, nuts, fruit, hike some more, repeat.  Lunch has some bread and cheese thrown in too.  I often hike until right before the sun goes down, if my body is feeling up to it. Voila, 20  miles.  Sounds fun. eh?

The whole point of this type of camping and hiking is the principle of simplicity.  What do you really need?  Here in the desert I sleep in a bivy sack, that is, a waterproof sleeping bag cover in order to cut the wind and protect from rain.  Mine happens to have mosquito netting if I need it (I will review it on a Gear Reviews page when I have a moment).  But, it is much like sleeping outside on a mat with a blanket in the middle of wherever.  Many of the camping accessories that we feel we need are not necessary in all situations.  Sure, it’s nice to bring a chair to sit on,and if you have back issues, it is also perhaps necessary.  But, my back doesn’t hurt when my pack is so light.  One set of clothes, a small solid-fuel stove for boiling water, and basic lightweight foods to balance your diet.  No gourmet dinners here, buthat is not the point of this adventure.  Even without the savings in weight carried, the principle of cutting out all that you don’t really need has a wonderful way of clarifying how little is needed.

I think I was first exposed to this principle by the Hadzabe, the hunter-gatherer tribe I studied in Tanzania.  They had their one pair of clothes and shoes. Men had their bow, arrows, axe and knife, women their digging stick, their metal pot, and wrap-like cloth for wearing and carrying things.  Soap, needle and thread, and a few other small items were very exciting and considered a luxury.  In the wet season they’d make grass thatched huts, but in the dry season, they just cleared off and area near their hearth for sleeping.

I don’t tell you all this to shock you with their poverty. Nor do I hold the hunter-gatherer lifestyle in a romantic light.  But, there is an elegance to travelling light, a sort of uncluttered feeling.  This principle can be applied to life back in “civilization” too.  In fact, Nate does a wonderful job of it.  It was extraordinary to see which of my belongings I never used.  Instead of facing moving, packing, or travelling (or cleaning up my place) with dread, I can throw together my world and toss it on my back.

I can already see that I’ve changed these last weeks; I no longer like sleeping inside, I am much more quiet in social settings, and I can’t seem to get worked up, angry, or worried about anything!  I guess that’s what happens when you can only plan for the next day or, at the most, the next week.

I’m off to the Mojave Desert.  Don’t forget to follow along on the map (Link on the righthand sidebar).

posted by Claire on Apr 25

In a heartbreaking turn of events, Nate has had to go back to Minnesota with an injured back. He started having painful back spasms on the trail after we left Idyllwild. When they did not get better after 4 days of rest in Big Bear City, we decided he should go home where he could take better care of himself. The Doc there pronounced that he has a herniated disk and will not be able to carry a pack for 4 to 6 months without the risk of re-injury.

So I am hiking the PCT on my own. I miss him already after only 5 days. We’ll see how things go from here on out. Solo hiking has its own rewards and challenges. As it is, I am near the front of the wave of hikers, since Nate and I started relatively early. This means that I won’t run into too many other hikers, which is good in that I am anti-social and don’t want to share my trail with people I don’t know. And, it’s bad because there is less likelihood of finding a hiking partner with whom I might be compatible. I’m fine with that, though, at least for now. We’ll see how long it takes for me to get so sick of myself that I change my tune!

For lack of time and html proficiency, our pictures are not all on this site.  But, you can see them on my Flickr page at  www.flickr.com/photos/clairesgallery/sets/72157604727854124.  Also, check out the new Route Map page that notes where we stay each night in near real time thanks to the fantastic SPOT Satellite Messenger and my helpful brother and sister-in-law.

posted by Claire on Apr 10

We left cold Minnesota on the 3rd for San Diego.  Our manager, Ed, arranged for his friend to come pick us up and drive us the hour-long trip to the trailhead.  We were on the trail by 2pm.  Talk about service: 4 stars. I even got a nap.

So we’re off, and I’ve posted (and updated) our itinerary. It was set for a five month trip, but our first week suggested that we will make better time than we expected.  We’ll be checking off stops and updating the dates as we go along. 

Our first leg was through the Laguna Mountains.  Heard of them? Us neither.  Nonetheless, they were beautiful.  We climbed up through mostly desert scrub.  Abruptly, at 5500 ft, we found ourselves in a lovely Ponderosa Pine forest.  That was the first whiff of the rich alpine smell that we both love about mountains.  Nate pointed out that the bark of Ponderosa Pine smells like butterscotch if you peel off a small piece. Try it sometime: Werthers in a tree.  One of the great things about this trip is all the small and lesser-known mountain ranges we get to pass through, gorgeous landscapes that we would never see otherwise.

 Unfortuately, I lightly sprained my ankle on the 5th day.  I’ll be back up and hiking on the 12th. In retrospect, I could have planned to take better care of my weak ankle to begin with and avoided this frustrating, disappointing hassle.  I guess that’s a lesson learned.  The trick will be remembering that lesson before the next time, not my strong suit.

See you in the San Jacintos. I’ll have some pictures for you then.